Ladies and Gents, Welcome to a religious and entertaining cultural festival in Iloilo City held every 4th Sunday of January, in honor of our patron Santo Niño; The most prestige, energetic, loud, and eye-catching Dinagyang Festival!

Dinagyang Festival 2012 Photos

And since it’s my first time to witness and be part of this huge event, I just wanna share you folks my shooting experience that you might find helpful and interesting (specially for those who are planning to take photos in this event next time).

#1 – The golden rule and the secret for having good pictures…
- None other than having an ID/ Photographer Pass. And that folks is absolutely a must! Why? coz good gears aren’t that good without having an ID; And I’m quite sure you don’t wanna find yourself pity, rejected by the Marshals, sneaking for a good shooting spot.

#2 – So now you have the ID, what’s next?
- Prepare the right tools for catching a good fish! Ask yourself, what are the kind of shots you want to achieve. If your answer is ALL, then bring your Ultra-Wide Angle, your General-Purpose Lens and a Telephoto. In  my case, I only used a Telephoto since I’m only aiming for capturing moments and expressions.

#3 – Plant yourself on a perfect spot.
- Since your not the only one photographing this event, It is important to have a good spot.  My opinion? Front row-center. Be here as early as you can coz I’m gonna tell you once again, your not the only one who would like to be in this position.

#4 – Protect yourself at all times.
- Yeah, yeah, I hear ya! There’s no trouble planting yourself on a perfect spot, but be aware of the sunlight, coz this one will ruin your shooting momentum (just like what we’ve experienced). This is the lesson I’ve learned in this event, and my suggestion is… Bring something to cover you up when the sun strikes your spot. A hat, scarf, long sleeves, etc..

#5 – Water/ Thirst Quencher.
- If your planning to plant yourself in one spot, then water is a must.

So that’s it folks, I hope what I’ve shared to you can be something useful. Moving forward, here are some of the photos taken during their performance at the Freedom Grandstand. Hope you’ll like this one. Check this out!

ATI TRIBE No.1
Tribu PAGHIDAET

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ATI TRIBE No.2
Tribu BUNTATALAN-ON

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ATI TRIBE No.3
Tribu SALOGNON

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ATI TRIBE No.4
Tribu LUNOK

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ATI TRIBE No.5
Tribu MILAGROSA

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You can also view the complete set of photos here:

Dinagyang Festival 2012 Photos on Facebook

Dinagyang Festival 2012 Photos on Flickr

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Thanks for dropping by to my Dinagyang Festival 2012 Photo Gallery! By the way, if you like this post, you can drop some comments or just rating it by simply clicking those stars above, and gimme a hell yeah! \m/

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Gears Used:
Canon EOS 50D
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM Lens

OST
Track: More Human Than Human
Artist: White Zombie
Album: Astro-Creep: 2000

Let your Photos do the Talking…

Enjoy the art and beauty of Photography by familiarizing your gear and mastering the functionality. Turn your Snapshots into Photographs and achieve sharp, outstanding photos.

Let your Photos do the Talking, A Basic Photography Workshop

From vivid colors to black and white, landscape and architecture, portraits and candid, low-light and night shots, abstract and still-life, close-up and mouth-watering food shots, go beyond the point and shoot style and unleash your skills in photography.

Featured Topics:

* Getting the right gears

* Terminologies in Photography

* Focus Points and Drive Modes

* Choosing your Image Quality and Formats

* Understanding Exposure
- ISO
- Shutter Speed
- Aperture

* Understanding White Balance

* Photography Categories

* Shooting Techniques

* Photography Composition and Techniques

* Using pop-up flash, external flash and settings

* Customizing settings on your DSLR

* Quick post-processing of photos using Adobe Lightroom

* Settings behind the shots

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Fee P1,500.00
Lunch and snacks will be provided

Requirements:
*A Camera with manual controls and exposure (preferably DSLR)

IMPORTANT:To reserve a slot, please deposit 500php, non-refundable to any of the following banks and send scanned deposit slip to shotnroll@gmail.com.

BPI
Banco de Oro

For reservations and further inquiries on the workshop, emails us at shotnroll@gmail.com
Or SMS / call at 0906 307 7084

Manila Ocean Park Photos, Oceanarium Revisited

Ladies and Gents, allow me to welcome you again to the state of the art hydro cells of Manila Ocean Park
where shooting is sweeter, the second time around.

What’s the difference between the 1st and 2nd visit?

1. Same old cells, new faces
- Yup! Some fish were replaced by the new ones.

2. No more Spider Crab
-Yes it’s true, the gigantic spider crab is gone, and wherever he is, he will always be remembered.
Long live the spider crab. \m/

3. Rose at Rest
- On my 1st visit, I use my lens named Rose (Canon 50mm f/1.8 II) to test under low-light conditions. So since this is a revisit, I use my all around lens named Daisy (Canon 17-85mm IS USM) instead, to feel the difference and compare results.

Here’s the difference between the two ladies (Canon 50mm vs. Canon 17-85mm):
1. Settings
- Good settings equals good photos. Here’s the settings that I’ve used on my 1st and 2nd shoot.

Canon 50mm lens settings:
ISO 800
f/2.5 to f/3.5
1/60 to 1/100 sec

Canon 17-85mm lens settings.
ISO 1600
f/5.6
1/15 to 1/60 sec

- Based on the settings above, Canon 50mm is the good one to use.
+1 for Rose.

2. Zoom range
- 50mm vs 85mm? Canon 17-85mm wins this one obviously. You can shoot those fishes more closely.
+1 for Daisy

3. Clarity
- No doubt about it, Canon 50mm lens has it! This lens is indeed produces more sharper images than Canon 17-85mm lens.
+1 for Rose.

4. Image Quality
- The higher the ISO is, the more noise it produce. Hence, generating much lower image quality. Therefore, Canon 50mm got this one with ISO 800 compared to Canon 17-85mm lens with ISO 1600.
+1 for Rose.

Score:
Canon 50mm: 3
Canon 17-85mm: 1

As for the verdict, I personally recommend to use the Canon 50mm  or any wide aperture lens you’ve got when you’re planning to shoot at this place.

Manila Ocean Park Photos, Oceanarium Revisited

Good thing about revisiting is that you have the chance to shoot the new ones, and the one you’ve missed.
So here it is folks, let’s start the show with the new ones.

Manila Ocean Park Photos, Oceanarium Revisited

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Thanks for dropping by to the Manila Ocean Park Revisited Gallery! By the way, if you like this post, you can drop some comments and rate it. Just click those stars and gimme a hell yeah! \m/
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Gears Used:
Canon EOS 1000D
Canon EF-S 17-85mm IS USM Lens

OST
Track: Run to the Water
Artist: Live
Album: The Distance to Here

Related Posts:

Rumble Jellies, Dancing Sea Fairies Photo, Manila Ocean Park
Manila Ocean Park, Oceanarium Fish and Underwater Photos
Maiden of the Sea, Oceanarium and Aquatica photos, shots

Press Menu button, go to the first tab/selection, then go to Quality. You’ll notice there’s a lot of qualities to choose from like S, M, L, RAW and RAW+L.

At first, I’m using RAW+L to see the difference between them. But then later, I’m switching from one quality to another since using RAW+L quality will eat a lot of space on your memory card. Just do remember that using RAW type consumes approximately from 8-10mb max on your memory card per shot, while L (jpg) consumes from 2-4mb max.

Many photographers prefer using RAW because of its clarity, image quality and post processing capabilities, compare to JPG types. Below are the illustrations and actual shots when I’m still using RAW+L quality, so be the judge ladies and gents, compare and conclude! To start of the judgement, I bring you my first shot, taken at the grounds of The Fort.

1st Shot: Skater Boy

Picture Style
User Defined 1: Monochrome
Filter effect: Green

L (jpg) image quality from Canon 1000D

Here are two images generated on a single shot. The above image is L, while the image below is RAW. Here’s what happens when you open the RAW file on Adobe Lightroom. The Picture Style is discarded and retains its original format and colors. So if you’re going to use the Mono Style on your cam, you should use the L(jpg) format.

RAW quality image when opened on Adobe Lightroom

Doing a little post-processing on this one, like increasing exposure, brightness and contrast, here’s the output:

Post-processed Raw quality image on Adobe Lightroom

Applying the same adjustments here on L (jpg) quality, here’s the output:

Post-processed L (jpg) quality image on Adobe Lightroom

Setting the Saturation on both RAW and JPG types to -100, here’s the output:

Applying Black and White colors on both Raw and JPG quality

Applying saved preset on both RAW and JPG image quality using Adobe Lightroom, here it is…
Preset used: Creative – Antique Light

Creative - Antique Light applied on Raw image quality

Creative - Antique Light applied on L (jpg) image quality

2nd Shot: Lonely Coffee just for One

Here are the two coffees generated on one shot.

Coffee on RAW quality image

Above image: Coffee on RAW quality.
Below image: Coffee on JPG quality image
Spot the differences?

Coffee on L (jpg) quality image

Doing a little post-processing on this one, like the ones we did before on the Skater Boy, here’s the output:

Post-processed Raw quality image on Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Lightroom has this cool tool in which you can rotate and crop the image. It’s like rotating the image but the position remains. Check out the image below.

Rotating (Crop Overlay)

Crop Overlay Tool on Adobe Lightroom

And for the final touch, the Watermarks. This will serve as your identifier, signature and the owner of the product or media. Watermarking can also be used for a wide range of applications such as Copyright protection, etc, etc…

Coffee on its finished product

Skater Boy on its finished product

Already made your conclusion? Either of the two image qualities that you may use is fine. It will only depend on your shots and how will you use it. If you lack in memory space, you can use the L (jpg) and other image quality except for RAW. My suggestion? Buy a higher memory for you to store more shots, and it’s not that expensive by the way.

Thanks for dropping by to my Raw vs. JPG Gallery! By the way, if you like this post, you can drop some comments and rate it. Just click those stars and gimme a hell yeah! \m/
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Gears Used:
Canon EOS 1000D
Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens

Candid shots are wonderful photographs that shows moment and emotions of ones subject. It simply shows your subject’s feeling towards something. It requires your focus, creativity and perfect timing to capture the “blues rhythm-like” feel of your subject.

Having a nice and amazing candid shots are more harder than shooting on a posed subject. Doing this one is much harder than you think it is. Anyway, here’s my newbie candid shooting tips that I’d like to share base on my photowalking experience.

1. Timing – is indeed everything. Make sure you capture the subjects moment on his best mood, feeling and gesture. (see Portraits #1, 3, 5)
2. Composition – the basic rule. Always apply this one in any types of your shot, whether it’s a landscape or portrait, applying this one will really give an impact in all of your shots. Look for a good angle to your subject then shoot it! (see Portraits #2 – 5)
3. Depth of Field – You have the subject, you have the composition, then apply this one. Try blurring the background to emphasize the subject. (see Portraits #3, 4, 5)
4. Vert’s Finest – Try shooting vertical. Though as they say that shooting vertical is magical, it also applies good composition to your shots. (see Portraits # 4 &  5)
5. Lights – try to involve this one coz lighting gives an extra feeling to your subject. (see Portraits #1 & 5)
6. Reversing – I want always want to recreate and experiment things. Reversing(my shot n’ roll term)
was changing your subject into sidekick(vice-versa). (see Portraits #4 & 5)

Portrait #1: Blind Mariachis

Blind Mariachis from Bohol Airport. They give entertainment to a lot of people, most specially the waiting passengers by playing nice songs with their fine-tuned guitars. As for me, while amazed in the music they’re playing, I grab my trigger and shoot ‘em! The natural light that reflects from the window gives a dramatic effect to my subject.

Portrait #2: Loboc Ambassador Rondalla

The Loboc Ambassador Rondalla… These Mariachis from Loboc River dominates the dining place by playing good music to the people. Aside from the nice landscape, seascape, and delicious foods they serve, this place is packed with other interesting subjects to shoot from, just like the fine-tuned mariachis here.

Portrait #3: A Pose For A Cause

This Portrait #3 I’ve called A Pose For A Cause is one of my favorite candid shots in Bohol. Why I choose this title? Simply because this is a stolen shot. She’s posing a shot from her friend and the camera is in front of her. I find that moment interesting to shoot that’s why I grab my good old Trigger to steal something. Timing, Composition and Depth of Field, three of the components I’ve applied in shooting this one.

Portrait #4: Beautiful Ones

This Portrait #4 is what I call shot n’ roll in reverse! This one I should say is one of my difficult candid shots in Bohol. Timing, Composition, Depth of Field, Vertical shot and my favorite, Reversed! I’ve focused the butterfly instead of her to give a unique approach. I’ve titled this one Beautiful Ones by the grunge band Suede.

Portrait #5: I Drink Alone

These Portrait #5 Rocks coz this candid night and low light shot captures the moment. Instead of choosing the guy with a beer to be my focus, I chose the lantern to light the fire in this shot. I drink alone, yeah, with nobody else… Blues Rock Music from George Thorogood.

Shooting people always have the impression and expectation of a moment. Whatever the mood it is or whatever she’s doing, make sure to capture that moment in a faster than bullet shots coz once your subject notice it, it’s over. You can’t have that moment again to repeat it, specially when your shooting a stranger.

Thanks for dropping by to my Candid Gallery! By the way, if you like this post, you can drop some comments and rate it. Just click those stars and gimme a hell yeah! \m/

Gears Used:
Canon EOS 1000D
Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens

My Trigger

Here are some of the words and acronyms that you will usually hear on this kind of field.

Viewfinder – is what the photographer looks through to compose, and in many cases to focus, the picture.
/* In short, this is where you put your eyes on to view your subject */

Live View – the digital counter part of view finder. Use this when you want to view your subject in LCD.
/* not all dslr cameras have this feature */

ISO – image sensor’s sensitivity to light.
/* The more ISO you use, the more noise it may produce */

Aperture – is a hole or an opening through which light travels.
/* The lower the value of your aperture, the more blurry the background is. Hence, your focus subject becomes clear and more emphasize */

Shutter Speed – is a common term used to discuss exposure time, the effective length of time a shutter is open.
/* Lets put it this way… If you want to freeze the motion of a moving subject, set your shutter speed to a higher value; If you want to create a laser-like effect on moving cars, set your shutter speed to lower value */

Subject – is the focus of your camera; your main dish; the one you emphasize the most.
AE – Auto Exposure

There are 2 shooting techniques in Canon EOS 1000d, which I think all of DSLR cams have. The Basic and the Advance techniques.

Basic Modes

• Portrait
• Landscape
• Close Up
• Sports
• Night Portrait
• Flash Off

Advance Modes

• <P> (Program AE) – this mode sets the shutter speed and aperture automatically to obtain the standard exposure.
• <Tv> (Time Value) – Shutter Priority AE
• <Av> (Aperture Value) – Aperture Priority
• <M> – Manual
• <A-DEP> – Automatic depth of field

I suggest you should directly proceed to Advance Shooting Modes than Basic Modes. Why? because shooting in a
Basic Mode is like shooting in a point and shoot camera.
Here’s a tip… Shoot in Advance Mode then select
<P> (Program AE) coz this mode sets the shutter speed and aperture automatically. In this case you’ll get
familiar with the Shutter Speed and Aperture value of each shots you’ve taken. The only thing you have to watch out
is your AF Points and ISO, and most specially your hand shakes. hehehe!
Here’s a sample shot using <P>

Longview (shot in Program Auto mode)

Now if your familiar with the Aperture, try shooting in <Av> mode. This is one of the modes that I personally like
coz it’s easy to use. If you want to blur the background of the subject, use this mode then set your f/value to the lowest.
Here’s a sample shot using <Av>

Little Wing (shot in Aperture Priority Mode)

Familiar with the Shutter Speed? Then shoot in <Tv> mode. This mode is more difficult than <Av> because this is more sensitive. The more Shutter Speed is, the slower your camera generates the image, most specially on night shots. Solution? Use a tripod. This mode is nice to use when shooting moving objects. If you want to stop the motion, or capture the laser like lights of fast moving cars, this is the mode that’s right for you.
Here’s a sample shot using <Tv>

Nocturnal Fountain (shot in Shutter Priority Mode)

How about the <A-DEP>? Use this mode when shooting wide angles and landscapes. This mode sets the focus points
automatically to all section, no need to adjust it. The only thing you should worry about is the ISO and your
hand shakes. hehehe!
Here’s a sample shot using <A-DEP>

Perfect Day (shot in A-DEP Mode)

Now if you’re familiar with all of the settings, try shooting in <M>(Manual Mode). Coz in this mode, you
will manually set the Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO, Focus Points and addtional settings like White Balance
and Picture Style. Click here to see some shots using <M>(Manual Mode).

That’s all folks! Hope my newbie shooting experience would help others… Thanks for dropping by! Shot n’ Roll!

You might also like other shooting tips:
Candid Shooting Tips
Sexy Models, Gorgeous Portraits, Studio Shots and Camera Settings

“Know your camera, and the camera will give you the shots you’ve wanted to”

Gears Used:
Canon EOS 1000D
Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens